Food,  Life,  Travel,  Work

Guam and the Mariana Islands: the new Old Hawaii

Okay, so I hesitated to write this post. That’s because I am living in Old Hawaii. Not really Hawaii, per se, but the kind of place that US mainlanders flocked to starting in the 1950s for its beautiful beaches, warm weather, and the sunny hospitality of the local people, who are also US citizens.

There’s no need to go to an exotic Thai or Philippine paradise to live (though wonderful for a vacation) when you can live at home in the US of A. We have all of the benefits of an exotic paradise, plus, you can work legally and speak the language no problem. The people here are amongst the most patriotic of all the States, with much higher than average rates of military service for the population. I feel proud to be an American when I see and meet these active members and veterans—which is all the time.

So why did I hesitate to tell you about the new Old Hawaii. Well, Old Hawaii, that beautiful backwater with the unspoilt beaches and wooden bungalows that was so affordable for surfers, teachers, and anyone else who just wanted a better, warmer more beautiful life, has become New Hawaii. New Hawaii is a stratospherically expensive urban center, like San Francisco, with unattainable rents and property values, celebrity chefs, shiny luxury stores with thousand dollar purses, and traffic backed up clear across Oahu. A million bucks is about what it takes to get a nice house in Honolulu, and even when you get that nice house, you have to deal with all of the difficulties that come now with one of the most beautiful and expensive cities in the world.

If you are like me, you wonder every once in a while, what if… what if someone had told me what Hawaii would become 30 or 40 years ago, and I had gone there and bought myself a little bungalow near Waikiki beach. I could have had that perfectly temperate weather, wander over to one of the most beautiful beaches in the world to go for a swim, or take a surfing lesson with one of the “beach boys,” and then maybe go to a local plate shack for delicious barbeque on the cheap. Then later, when my house was worth a million bucks, I could sell it and travel the world, or retire to somewhere that was quieter again. But now I can’t even get my foot in the door.

Well, I’m telling you now, Guam and the Northern Mariana Islands are a paradise like Old Hawaii was. There are still apartments to rent and houses to buy that are affordable, and you can still walk to a pristine beach or hike to a waterfall without throngs of people all around. And, most likely, if you have any skill of any kind, someone needs you to do some work, especially if you can do construction, information technology, bookkeeping, teaching, hospitality (hotel work) or any other office administrative work. The cost of living is reasonable. There are many places to get cheap groceries, and there is a thriving used car market.

In addition, the people of the Marianas are among the warmest on the planet. They are very hospitable with very strong family ties. The history of the islands is interesting, from Magellan’s landing in Guam in the 1500s to the World War II battles waged in Guam and Saipan (and Tinian, where the Enola Gay lifted off to drop the nuclear bomb). There is a Spanish fort in Guam and there are still concrete bunkers from WWII around the islands that you can walk up to and touch.

The indigenous Chamorro people love their food- and the barbeque, dried beef, breadfruit in coconut, chicken kelaguen (marinated in lemon with fresh coconut and chives), glass noodles with vegetables in sweet soy, and red rice are just a few of the local dishes I can rattle off that are served with well-deserved pride. There are many others, and if you are ever lucky enough to be invited to a local barbeque, you may also be treated to apagigi (coconut in tapioca rolled in banana leaf and grilled), manha (young coconut) pie, or lantizas (light cake with custard sprinkled with cinnamon).

That being said, you are not going to get all of the amenities you would get in the US mainland or New Hawaii. There are a lot of unpaved coral roads. It’s harder to get things done—the pace is slower, and there is not as much automation in government processes. Even the internet and smart phones are slower. But the Marianas are connected to the world, and it’s easier than ever to be connected to friends, family, and business off island.

The houses tend toward concrete block- and many of them are not modern designs with an “open floorplan” and kitchen island. The tropics are pleasant for humans but also for bugs- and you will see some impressive ones. On the subject of animals, people do not tend to dress up their pet dogs in cute outfits and provide cushy dog beds- you will see some dogs working as security services.

But if you are looking to get out of an expensive urban city, and want to breathe the freshest air on the planet, Guam and the Northern Mariana Islands could be your Old Hawaii. But you better hurry—people are starting to catch on.*

 

*Expedia names Saipan one of the 12 most amazing islands you will find in the US. Check out the HGTV beachfront bargain hunt filmed in Saipan. Also check out the Guam beachfront bargain hunt posted by one of our local realtors. Be aware, Saipan has different property ownership – always do your research before buying.

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